(Image source: Ashvini Garud)
The
great floods of last year, in the Indian state of Uttarakhand, that
caused havoc and unprecedented loss to life and property, have a new
delayed aftereffect. Readers might recollect that Uttrakhand was
devastated by floods and landslides in India's worst natural disaster
since the 2004 tsunami, which had battered the east coast and
Andaman-Nicobar islands. The Utarakhand floods, caused by a multi-day
cloudburst on few fateful days in June 2013, had also caused floods
in neighbouring areas like parts of Himachal Pradesh, Haryana, Delhi
and Uttar Pradesh in India, along with some regions of Western
Nepal, and some parts of Western Tibet, which experienced unusual and
very heavy rainfall. Wikipedia estimates suggest that more than
5,700 people were "presumed dead." including 934 local
residents in Uttrakhand floods.
(Image source: Indian Army)
In an
earlier blogpost, “A
look at Himalayan disaster relief operations through Indian Army
Tweets
” I had outlined three river valleys, which were devastated by the
floods. It so happens that Uttarakhand's important tourist trails to
important religious places, go through these river valleys only.
These routes are: Rishikesh-Uttarkashi-Harsil-Gangotri;
Rudraprayag-Kedarnath - Joshimath-Badrinath and easterly route of
Dharchula-Tawaghat in Pithoragarh district, neighbouring Nepal. It is
this last route along Nepal border, where huge damages caused by the
floods of last year are now becoming big obstacles for the pilgrims
wanting to go on the most revered and sacred pilgrimage for the
Hindus in coming summer months.
The
mountain peak of Kailash and the large reservoir of water, at the
foot of the mountain, known as 'Mansarovar,' are perhaps the most
sacred places for Hindus to go on a pilgrimage. Both these places are
located in western Tibet and are also equally sacred for Tibetans,
who follow Buddhist religion. Travelling to Kailash from India in the
normal course itself, can be considered as one of the most arduous
and strenuous journey, even for a fittest person. Because of this,
Indian Government has made it mandatory for the pilgrims to undergo
strict medical check up before they are allowed to go.
(Image source: Ashvini Garud)
However,
there is an easier way to Kailash, via Nepal, where a bus can take
you all the way. But this travel is an expensive proposition and not
many pilgrims are willing to take this up, except for few affluent
ones. Most off the pilgrims still prefer to take the direct
India-Tibet land route. The initial part of this journey
can be
done by a vehicle on a motorable road which goes through the towns,
Almora, Dania, Pithoragarh, Dharchula, Tawaghat and Narayan Ashram.
From here the trek begins with pilgrims walking along the 'Kali'
river up to Kalapani. A tough trek of 9 Km to Navidhang and then a
further trek of 8 Km takes the pilgrims to the Lipulekh pass (5334m)
located on the international border and crossing it takes the
pilgrims to Tibet. Here the Tibetan/Chinese authorities welcome
them. They walk down to Chang Lobochahela and from here by truck and
bus they reach the old trading town of Taklakot (Purang), which is
situated on the banks of the Karnali river. Onwards journey to
Kailash can be done by a bus.
Last
year's flash floods washed away a 60-meter-long road bridge at
Kanchyoti village between Dharchula and Narayan Ashram and large
portions of road in the nearby Tawaghat area; portions of the initial
part of the pilgrimage route. The Border Roads Organisation (BRO) and
PWD are handling the repair and construction work in the area along
with the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. The plan is to build a
124-meter-long road bridge in place of the one washed away. However,
considering the pace at which this work is progressing, it is
doubtful whether the road would be ready before the due date when
pilgrimage starts on 8th
June 2014.
The
alternative routes being explored just in case the presently damaged
roads are not ready before due date. One alternative route is from
Tawaghat to Sirkha and Gala, the first and second Indian base camps
of the pilgrimage. However part of this route from Tawaghat to Gala
runs along the Kali river and is believed to be prone to landslides.
Also alternative route between Tawaghat and Sirkha is a 19-km-long,
steep trek. The authorities consider it as risky and unsafe for
pilgrims. However, pilgrims may be forced to use these alternatives
if the state government fails to clear the main route on time.
In
short, for the people, who may be interested in going on this
pilgrimage this year, the picture hardly could be called encouraging.
A friend of mine, who had been on this pilgrimage few years ago, had
told me sometime back that the enthusiasm and determination of the
participants going on the pilgrimage is unimaginably high and their
devotion towards Kailash so profound that no hardship or difficulty
on the way deters them even to the slightest extent. With that kind
of determination, it would be no wonder if the Kailash pilgrimage
starts and continues, it would turn out to be great success even this
year, in spite of all the hardships and difficulties.
27th
January 2014
No comments:
Post a Comment