For
last few days, I have been visiting temples and temples only, every
day, right since morning till evening. With such an overdose of
temples, I have been feeling slightly templed out without any doubt.
To bring me back to the present from the Chalukya king's period of
seventh century, I decide to visit two picturesque spots from this
area. I am on my way to to the confluence of the same “Malaprabha”
river that I saw next to “Virupaksha” temple in “Pattadakal,”
with one of the mightiest river of the Deccan; “Krishna” river
near a place called “Kudal.”
Confluence of Krishna and Malaprabha rivers
The Bridge for crossing to Shiva Lingam Well
Shiva Lingam well, Circular stair case and canopy
Circular stair case
Malaprabha river bed
At
the point of confluence, river bed of “Krishna” river is much
wider, compared to that of “Malaprabha', which makes it look like a
small rivulet. The confluence spot is extremely picturesque without
any doubt at all. Azure blue water, lavish green banks with all that
foliage and clear bright blue sky convert the scene into a magical
blue kingdom. Earlier, the river bed of “Krishna” was not so wide
and a Shiva Lingam with its temple, existed at the point of
confluence. Because of the new dam that has come up on the river,
this confluence spot has now gone underwater, as river bed here now
is part of the backwaters of the dam. Most of the people from this
area belong to “Lingayat” community, who worship this Shiva
Lingam and opposed the reality of its submergence. The Government
bowed to the pressure and have built a well around this old Shiva
Lingam, which now can be seen at the bottom of this well. A circular
staircase has been built along the inner wall of the well. I cross
the river waters by means of a bridge and walk down the well to the
bottom. At the top, a balcony has been built around the perimeter of
the well. I stand at the point and enjoy the fabulous cool breeze
flowing across the waters. It is a lovely experience, which can not
be described in words very easily.
Almatty dam
Entry gate for Almatty dam top
After
visiting the confluence, our bus leaves in the northern direction to
the last stop of my Deccan safari; Vijapur. On way, we cross a huge
dam known by the name “Alamatti.” This dam has become a major
dispute between two of Indian states, Karnataka and Maharashtra
because of its height. As it is, the backwaters have reached the
Sangli city in Maharashtra. If the dam height is increased further,
there are chances that the backwaters may enter the Sangli city
itself. This is really the bone of contention as Maharashtra state is
afraid that many more villages around Sangli city, would get
submerged. Nevertheless, this dam has now transformed once drought
prone districts of “Bagalkote” and “Vijapur” into a fertile
wonderlands. “Vijapur” district in particular, was always known
for its terrible droughts.
On
way, I stop in “Irakal” town, a place famous for its red hot
chillies and sarees. After seeing heaps and heaps of red chilies
drying in the sunlight on the road side fields, on my way to the
town, I am tempted and buy some chilli powder in the town. This
chilli is not considered to be hottest but supposedly gives a great
red colour to the dishes.
Entry gate, Krishna park
Krishna Park, Almatty
Just
next to the “Almatty” dam, which I mentioned above, a vast and
beautiful park has been developed by the Government. The park, with a
beautiful environment and scenes of vilage life with innumerable
statues of animals and birds is really worth visiting. I see number
of small kids wearing school uniforms, on a day picnic at the park. I
can not linger here any longer, as I need to reach “Vijapur” city
by evening.
In
the year 1347, Hasan Gangu Bahamani established his kingdom on the
Deccan plains, which is kinown as “Bahamani” empire. It ended in
1480 and was divided in five seperate kingdoms: Imadshahi of Berar,
Baridshahi of Bidar, Kutubshahi of Golkonda, Nizamshahi of
Ahamadnagar and finally Adilshahi of Vijapur. In addition to these
The Hampi empire was in existence in Deccan, as seen by us earlier in
this series of articles. In 1565, all these Muslim kingdoms got
together and defeated Hampi forces at “Banihatti.” Subsequently,
these kingdoms kept on fighting with each other and also with Mughals
in control of north India at that time. Slowly one by one, these
kingdoms were defeated and disappeared with Nizamshahi last to go in
1636. After this, only two powers remained. Mughals in the north and
Adilshahi in the Deccan.
This
Adilshahi kingdom ruled over Deccan from 1489 to 1686 almost all over
the plateau except for the small area under control of the small
kingdom of Great Maratha General, Shivaji. In 1686, Mughal emperor
Aurangazeb defeated “Vijapur” armies and Adilshahi saw it's final
demise. Since “Vijapur” was the capital of a large empire for
more that 150 years, we can still see here in “Vijapur,” many
traces of its past glory. All these reasons make it a must for me to
include this place in my Deccan safari.
You
may enter “Vijapur” from any direction, the first thing you
notice is the superb architecture of the magnificent landmark; “Gol
Gumbaj.” I am starting my visit from very this building. I have
been told, that to enjoy this monument, I must visit it early in the
morning. Heeding this advice, I get up early and reach the outer
gates of this place at sunrise. Ahead of me is a facade structure
known as “Nakkarkhana,” which houses a museum now. Archeological
survey of India has recently found ruins of Jain temples, while
excavating at this place, A pillar of a temple from these ruins can
be seen lying on the ground. From the place, where I stand now,
“Nakkarkhana” structure is completely hiding the main monument of
“Gol Gumbaj,” with only top dome and four minars or towers in
four corners visible to me. This kind of arrangements were built in
those days to make an impression of the grandeur of the main building
on the mind of the visitor. There is one more entry gate between this
“Nakkarkhana” and the main structure of the “Gol Gumbaj.” I
start walking towards the main structure through the entry gate. This
gate has been constructed in such a fashion that as I walk along, I
see the top dome of the main structure rise in front of me like a
full moon rising in the east.
Big dome behind Nakkarkhana ar surise
Excavated Jain Pillar
Morning sunlight floodlights the cemeteries
Roof supporting brackets, east side minar on the side
Balusters on roof
whispering gallery
I
reach the base of the main building and become acutely aware of the
fabulous grandeur of this great structure. I enter from a side door.
In front of me, in the middle, are the cemeteries of Mohamad Adil
Shah and his wife. However my attention is caught by the sharp beams
of sunlight piercing through small windows specially provided in the
east, which are directly falling on the cemeteries in the middle and
are making them shine as if floodlighted. The Adilshahi kings, after
coming to power, would start building their mausoleums first as
probably they never knew, how long they would continue to be in power
in those days of great uncertainty. They might be thinking that if
they do not have a mausoleum ready at the time of the their death,
they would never be remembered in the future.
I
start climbing a staircase built with steep steps in of the corner
minar or tower and reach the balcony along the inner perimeter of the
top dome after climbing up seven stories. One can witness many
amazing effects created by multiple reflections or echoes of a sound
produced at a spot in the balcony. Even if I wrinkle a piece of paper
in my hand, it can be easily heard at a distance of 38 meters. This
is the reason for this balcony being called whispering gallery. I
feel like paying my respects to the architect, who conceived and
built this place. The main hall of this “Gol Gumbaj” is a square
of 205 feet with its roof at a height of 100 feet. A 38 meter (120
feet) diameter dome has been constructed above the hall and this
entire structure had taken 30 years to build.
Majestic grandeur of Gol Gumbaj
After
visiting this amazing “Gol Gumbaj” I move towards the next
important place of visit here in Vijapur: the old fort. This fort has
retained still, the original ramparts and the rounded towers. I climb
one of the towers with the steps built there. On top I can see the
famous “Malika-e- maidan” or 'Queen of a battle' gun, which has
been placed there. This gun, with a diameter of about 5 feet and
length of 14 feet was cast as a single casting in gunmetal in
Ahamadnagar, weighing more than 55 tons. There is an engraved picture
of a dragon chewing an elephant under its teeth. When Mughal emperor
Aurangazeb had conquered “Vijapur,” he had fixed a plaque on the
gun tower, which proudly declares that “ Not only have I won
Vijapur, I have also won the Malika-e-Maidan gun.” This gun might
appear very scary, however considering its diameter to length ratio,
I feel that it might not have been a very effective and deadly
weapon.
Malika-e Maidan Gun
Engraving on the gun
Aurangazeb's epigraph
Not
very far away from the gun tower is the famous mausoleum of king
Ibrahim Adil shah known as “Ibrahim Roja.” This place, surrounded
by beautiful green lawns and flowers, actually comprises of two
structures, a mausoleum built by the king and a Masjid or a prayer
hall. The mausoleum structure has been built in a very dainty and
artistic fashion. It is said that while building this structure, the
king always wanted to build something comparable to the Taj Mahal.
This structure has the burial spots and cemeteries of Ibrahim Adil
Shah, his wife Taj Sultana and other family members.
Dainty Ibrahim Roja
Mausoleum of Adil Shah
The Masjid
Steel chain designed like earrings of queen Taj Sultana
The
adjoining structure of Masjid has a huge, elaborately fabricated
steel chain hung on the facade wall. It is said that this has been
made as per design of an earring of the queen, Taj Sultana. The
mausoleum has many decorative panels. Some of which are plans of
construction of this building and the basement. No foundation
trenches were dug for this building. The entire structure stands on
pairs of arches placed facing opposite directions of up and down.
This fact can be realized after visiting the basement.
After
dainty “Ibrahim Roja,” I visit the twin towers of “Jod Gumbaj.”
During invasion of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, King Sikandar Adil Shah
was ruling. His prime minister or “Vazir” “ Khavas Khan” and
his guru “ Abdul Kadri,” have their final resting places here.
This Vazir Khavas khan, was in reality a traitor to the Adil Shah,
helping Emperor Aurangzeb. After his death, Aurangzeb had built these
structures as his mausoleum. However many tourists visit this place
for a different reason altogether. It is believed by many, that by
dedicating a piece of a thread, given special powers by a Mulla
present in the mausoleum, to the cemetery, one can achieve what ever
he wishes. I leave the place, as I am not much inclined to believe
in such stuff.
Twin domes
A
short distance away is the large sized “Jamiya Masjid” built by
first Adil Shah. This structure, built over an area of 1,16000 square
feet can be considered as one of the superb specimens of Islamic
architecture. About 2250 large sized persons (Like famous Afzal khan
killed by Maratha king, Chhatrapati Shivaji) could pay their
obeisance to the Allah here at ease. The roof of the structure has
been supported on number of arches. The central portion of the west
side wall is decorated with quotes from the “Qur’an” and
pictures of religiously important places. This spot is called as
“Meherab” and a Mulla giving a sermon would stand at this place.
The acoustics of this structure has been so designed that even a
smallest sound generated at this place, can be heard anywhere else
clearly. Many Hindu and Muslim person have helped in building and
maintenance of this structure including, emperor Auranzeb, Mohamad
Adil Shah and Maratha kings from Satara.
Arches of Jamia Masjid
Meherab, Jamiya Masjid
After
visiting all these places of past glory, I am aware that this place
must have been a glorious and a affluent city once. At present, this
place, now located in one neglected corner of the Karnataka state,
has become a neglected historic city. One realizes this from very
poor amenities and bad roads. If better infrastructural facilities
like good roads and an airport are created, this place has the
potential of being developed like the tourist city of Aurangabad in
Maharashtra.
I
end my Deccan safari with the visit to Vijapur. For all these years,
I had always connected history of Deccan with just one period of its
long and checkered history; the period associated with Maratha kings
beginning with Shivaji. Now along with that period, I have been able
to understand in a better fashion, importance of Chalukya kings,
Hampi Kingdom and all the Muslim kingdoms including Vijapur's Adil
Shahi in the hisory of this land. I clearly understand now, why Kings
ruling from Deccan plateau always dreamed of setting up their own
independent states, while rest of India was deeply entrenched under
foreign rule of Mughals based in Agra and Delhi. I feel that history
of Deccan teaches us the importance of independence and this history,
much neglected in the history books should be given its due place.
(Concluded)
25
December 2012
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